Over the Bitterroot Mountains

As the Missouri River became unnavigable, Louis and Clark kept pressing westward and were seriously in need of horses to continue their quest. As they came upon this upthrust of limestone, Sacagawea, who had been captured from her tribe as a child, recognized it from her childhood as part of the land of the Shoshone tribe. They pressed on towards the Bitterroot Mountains, seen here.
Coming upon some warriors, Louis and Clark entered into negotiations for horses and brought Sacagawea forward to help translate. When Sacagawea recognized the current tribal chief as none other than her own brother, a happy reunion occurred. Needless to say, they got their horses.


Later, not all relationships with tribes were as easy. Originally, the Nez Perce tribe was given a large swath of land as a reservation. After gold was discovered, we reduced that area by 90% and attempted to confine this proud nation to one small corner. One thing led to another and in August 1877, the Nez Perce people were attacked at dawn by US Calvary troops and civilian volunteers. Ninety men, women and children of the Nez Perce perished. Chief Joseph rallied his warriors, killing 28 soldiers and seriously wounding many others. The Big Hole Battlefield, seen above commemorates this event with an informative visitors center and preserved battleground.

We stayed the night nearby at May Creek, a US National Forest campground. In the evening, a talk given by Nez Perce elders at the campfire ring held us spellbound. For three hours, we soaked up the stories and wisdom of North Star, a Nez Perce elder, three generations removed from this tragic battle. It was awesome . . .

On Sept 4, 1805, Louis and Clark descended, cold and wet, from the snow covered mountains into this wide valley, where over 400 of the Salish tribe were encamped.
They greeted The Expedition warmly, sharing food and clothing from their own, limited stores. The Salish also provided important information about the terrain that would be encountered in the treacherous mountains to the west.

To be continued . . .

Louis & Clark Caverns, Montana

On the northern bank of the Missouri River in southwest Montana, we rested at Louis & Clark Caverns State Park. As the Expedition passed this spot 206 years ago, they were unaware of the beautiful art nature wrought inside the hills overlooking their passage. Here's a view of the campsite and river from near the caverns entrance.

A very close up and personal experience with the cavern was had as we descended through narrow shafts and slippery passages during the tour.



At the information center, this picture of Catholic nuns who were regular visitors of the cavern by candle light led us to believe we might encounter them during the tour. Oscar thought they got lost and never found their way out! He kept his eyes darting left and right in search of the contemplative ladies. About halfway through, Oscar said "GOT EM!" and he took this photograph of what he swears is the sisters, encased in candle wax, and frozen in time . . .
Silly dog.

Fort Benton Montana

The American Fur Company started doing business at the current site of Ft Benton, Montana in 1847. Prized buffalo robes came into the store brought by Plains Indians, who desired many of the items the traders had to offer. This is the trading room used for that purpose. Most of the Indians here were taller than the Europeans that operated the trading activity, so the traders went so far as to build a raised platform they could stand on behind the counter!


In early June, of 1805, Louis and Clark arrived at the confluence of two rivers about 10 miles downriver from here and climbed an overlooking hill to decide which branch to take to find the great rapids spoken about by the Indians and the sought after passageway to the Pacific Ocean. Clark took an expedition up the right fork and Louis, the left. For 5 days, they traveled seeking the great falls. Louis' route was chosen as the correct route.

Ft Benton is a small town full of colorful history. One of its blocks became so rowdy and lawless, it had to be surrounded by the US Calvary to settle things down to a more or less civil atmosphere. At that time, it was known as "Bloodiest Block in the West," where six shooters were openly displayed on the top of every poker table. Twelve of the thirteen business on the block were saloons, dance, halls, of brothels.


This 1888 bridge still spans the rushing Missouri. Pedestrians may stroll out and sit on benches or watch the river flow along the Louis and Clark route. Oscar was surprised by the old squeaky board which sagged as we walked past.

In 1887, this artful display of buffalo collected from Montana went on display at the US Smithsonian Museum. They remained there for 70 years before being displaced by other exhibits. In 1996 they returned to Montana and are now on display in Fort Benton at the Hornaday/Smithsonian Buffalo and Western Art Gallery - an impressive sight.
The mountains are close and the skies are enchanting at Ft Benton. The Wonder Egg looks right at home as the sun paints the clouds with ever changing hues.

To be continued . . .

WAHKPA CHU'GN

2000 years ago, the Besant people chose a steep cliff overlooking a running river as a fine spot for chasing buffalo off the precipice so they could kill and harvest them for sustenance. The Avonlea people repeated the activity around 1250 years ago, followed by the Saddle Butte peoples around 600 years ago.

The site is now a well run archeological and educational endeavor where you may imagine the frenzied activities that occurred many years ago between man and beast. To facilitate the kill, ancient people built corrals to keep the wounded buffalo from getting away during the slaughter. They thought if one escaped, it would tell the rest of the herd about the trap and the buffalo harvest would end.

Distinct layers of bone may be seen in the vertical walls of the dig. Looking at the density of bones you sense the vast number of buffalo that met their demise here.


After the tour, Judy and I pose near a pint sized buffalo used as a target for modern hunters as they attempt the ancient method of hurling an atlatl for hunting big game. Hold still, now . . .

Eons have passed and erosion has softened the descent from the heights. The bucolic valley by the river has only begun to unfold the events that helped to sustain the ancestors of these lands.

To be continued . . .

North Dakota to Montana

Lake Sakakawea State Park is located close to where Lewis experienced one of his worst, and perhaps his most embarrassing accidents. Apparently, Lewis spotted some fat elk on a willow bar, so he and the ever popular fiddle-playing Frenchman, Pierre Cruzatte, loaded up their rifles and struck out to replenish the meat supply. Unfortunately, Pierre had one eye, and was extremely nearsighted. He wound up mistaking Lewis, who was clad in brown buckskin, for an elk and shot him in the butt. Lewis had difficulty sitting for the remainder of the trip.

Lewis seems to be pointing out the direction towards real elk on the front of each and every fire pit at the park.


Departing the area, we stopped at a store to replenish supplies and couldn't resist parking next to another Casita in the parking lot. Steve and Judy were surprised as they walked out of the store and found all the Eggs next to their newly purchased trailer (on the left side of this gaggle). A very nice couple, I'm sure we'll be meeting them at rallies down the road.


West of Williston, ND is the Fort Union Trading Post. Lewis and Clark made camp near there on April 25, 1805 and noted this location would be good for a trading outpost. Two decades after the expedition, the American Fur Trading Company established Fort Union,where a brisk trade in animal hides took place from 1828 to 1867.


One of the well preserved, knowledgeable, traders still works at the post and is more than happy to entertain questions from today's modern travelers.


Outside the fort, a grouping of tipis (local spelling) represents an encampment of Native Americans who would have come for trading with the white man on the Upper Missouri River.


Luckily, we had our tipi inspectors, Judy and Wayne along to check out the structures. They pronounced them to be in perfect condition.


With the visit to the trading post, we passed another state line and entered big sky country, Montana . . .


Lewis and Clark documented Indian civilizations that had wandered over these lands on their journey. What they failed to note, were the long, long, long ago inhabitants that were there before. At Peck Dam, there is an exhibit to these earlier inhabitants. This one would have thought Judy and Al were no more than an afternoon snack.
It's a good thing they didn't meet in person!

The scariest thing we've run into is a small, furry smiley thing that appears in my car.

To be continued . . .